[Lin Rhea]

Someone in another thread asked how we would make the domed heads similar to the ones on the famous Bowie Number One. Thanks Dale. All we can say is they are similar, since we cant take that knife apart to be sure, but these work and I thought it should be here on the forum. I will say though that this is one way, not the only way. But this way can be used and adapted to your own situation. I really like this method and cant believe this subject has not been posted already. It's so easy..... well, you'll see.

This little jig is the prototype so, there might be some very slight changes to streamline the process or improve it, but it works pretty well. It works best on soft materials such as copper, nickle/silver, fine Silver, or Gold. The tools are not hardened, but could be for working harder materials. I got my original idea from Dr Jim Batson at a hammer In a couple of years ago. He took the time to draw his system, which was very similar to what I made.

The idea is to punch out small discs, dome them, and put a hole in them if a hole is needed. Some makers solder the pin in the cup of the dome....... so that particular one would not need a hole. It's mate on the opposite side of the handle, however, would.

Here is the main tool block and the punches.

[Lin Rhea]

[Dale Huckabee]

Thanks Lin,

I think I see what you are doing. My feeble mind is a little slow but maybe I can figure it out eventually.

Dale

[Lin Rhea]

The sheet silver, or what ever material, is slid into the slot and the disc punched out the bottom.

[Lin Rhea]

The next thing is to take the disc and put it into the next hole that is cupped shape. It was drilled with a ball mill. It was slightly scratchy in the block so to smooth it some, I chucked the round punch in the drill press and put some lapping compound in the hole and spun the punch in it. That evened the punch and "mold" into the same shape. I tell you this because it is something you will likely encounter if you make one.

[Lin Rhea]

The dome is shaped with the punch that is shown in the middle of the first picture above. Then the dome is sit down into a second,.... no.... third hole, which has that shape but also has a hole in it exactly in the middle. Then the hole is punch with a the punch shown in this picture.

[Lin Rhea]

The punched dome is still on the punch.

[Lin Rhea]

This just shows the pin stock slipped through the dome. At this point the dome can be cleaned up, the bottom flattened, The hole countersunk, and the surface polished, at least down around where it sits on the handle material. All of these operations presents its own challenge because of the small size of the piece.

[Ed Street]

Dont suppose you have a good closeup photo of the final product?

[Lin Rhea]

I dont have close ups. Sorry.

[ABS Webmaster]

Thank you Lin for posting this tutorial. It is very helpful.

[Ed Street]

So if I understand this correctly it is an expanding rivet pin? Also looks like the tooling you are using is the same as a dapping block setup.

[Josh Dabney]

Thank you for the tutorial Lin !

Brilliant.

-Josh

[Lin Rhea]

Ed, I believe it is similar to a dapping block. The only expansion I want in this pin is on the outside of the dome to fill the hole and countersink. When light hammer pecks are used the pin can be shaped to fill in the dome.

This construction is quite strong due to not only the physical strength of the dome, but the fact that the soft Silver work hardens when you dome it in the block. This enables it to withstand the light hammering to shape the pin's head.

Another "plus" of this type of construction is that you can undersize the pin to allow for contraction and expansion of handle scales. There is also evidence that some of the early knives had a tube in the handle for the pin to pass through, the tube projecting out of the handle scales and up into the underside of the dome to provide some added strength/support while, at the same time, being covered by the dome.

[Dale Huckabee]

Thanks Lin. Now I understand. A couple of more questions though. What size are the holes for punching the disk and the cupped hole? Also what thickness stock do you usually use?

Thanks again,
Dale

[Lin Rhea]

Dale,
Some good questions I was sort of expecting. The stages get progressively smaller, as you might think. Mine started with the disc as .240, then using the doming punch, push it down into a hole in the block (with a domed/cupped bottom)of about .230. This same hole is where you would punch the pin hole in the dome/cup. If you are not going to punch a hole in the Silver dome, dont hit it too hard or it will leave a halo on top. You can have a seperate hole in the block with no center hole. But the center hole is handy in the event the dome gets stuck and you want to be able to push it out from the other side.

It doesn't matter the actual size just so the set up produces the sized domes that you need for the particular knife. I can imagine needing two set ups for different sized knives.

If you are expecting to make a lot of these, you might consider using an arbor press to hold your punches. But it's not difficult to use this manually.

Oh, the stock is .020 for the cups and my pin stock is .082 I keep a numbered drill (slightly larger) dedicated for this set up in my kit. Your kit might be different according to your available stock but the results will be so close it would be hard to tell any difference.

[Dale Huckabee]

Thank you Lin. This is a subject that I've wondered about for some time. I have seen some beautiful knives with dommed pins and always wondered just exactly how they were made. Reading your post on Bowie No. 1 brought the subject back to my mind and gave me the opportunity to ask how they were done. I will be making a set of tools as soon as I can and will give them a try. I am sure some others will appreciate this information as much as I do. If anyone else has another way of making them I would be interested is knowing about it also.

Dale

[Lin Rhea]

Dale, I would be interested in what you find on the subject. The way I am showing is just one way. If I were to specialize in this style knife, I would be more concerned about refining the system, but this works for now. I cant imagine James Black having a very elaborate set up either.

[BrionTomberlin]

I do it basically the same way as Lin. I did not make my disc cutter but it does the same thing. I use a dapping set for doming the discs. These can be found at any good jewelry supply place.



The finshed product ready for installing in the handle.



Brion

[Ed Clarke]

Hey Brion and Lin,

Very interesting info from both of you...thanks. I will have to try this because it looks "challenging" I am curious about a tool I saw while looking on a certain knifemaking suppliers website. It's called a "headspinner", and apparently will round the head of a pin on stock up to 1/8". Clearly this tool is meant for another purpose as it is not a mechanical fastener, but when would someone need to use it?

Ed C.